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Restaurant review

Rudy's Churrascaria

Two brothers open a South American steakhouse

Staff Writer

Friday, September 05, 2008

Germantown chiropractor Dr. Rudy Mejia grew up in Colombia eating rotisserie-cooked meats in the tradition of the churrascaria, or South American Steakhouse.

And he ate well: Mejia's father lived as a gaucho in Argentina before launching a successful career as a restaurateur. His father and uncle both operated restaurants in South America, serving the rotisserie-grilled meats that have made churrascarias both famous and embraced in an increasingly large number of restaurants across the U.S. (Cena, on the Dayton Mall's front porch, introduced the concept to Dayton-area diners in February 2007.)

Extras

Rudy's Churrascaria
  • WHERE: 42 N. Main St. in the former Germantown Opera House [Map]
  • HOURS: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
  • COST: The Churrasco Rodizio, or all-you-can-eat rotisserie meats, is $21.95, while the Carne Assada for one is $15.95. Other entrees are $6.95 to $7.95.
  • DISHES TO TRY: The Churrasco Rodizio is the ultimate South American Steakhouse experience, with meats carved and served tableside throughout the meal, but for the best value, bring a friend and order the Carne Assada for two for the same price ($21.95).
  • MORE INFO: (937) 353-7375
  • MORE: Reader ratings, complete profile

So when Mejia was looking for a way to boost interest in Germantown's downtown — and utilize some of the space in the Germantown Opera House (circa 1872) that he owns — he turned to his roots. Mejia and his brother German (Herr-MAHN) and their wives opened Rudy's Churrascaria two months ago to robust crowds.

The food and the prices make it worth the trip — even if some patience might be required.

To immerse yourself in the full churrascaria experience, order the Churrasco Rodizio ($21.95), and let the servers bring large sword-like skewers of rotisserie-grilled meats to your plate for tableside carving. The meats range from Picanha (top sirloin grilled with rock salt) to Alcatra (chimichurri-marinated top sirloin) to Medalhao de Frango (bacon-wrapped chicken medallions) to Porco Assado (seasoned pork roasted with rock salt), among others. The feast also includes salad, beans, rice and other side dishes.

If you can do without the tableside carving, order the Carne Assada for one ($15.95) and receive one sampler plate of the meats with sides. But if you have a dining companion, consider ordering what may be the best value on the menu, the Carne Assada for two, with a plate overflowing with meats that easily feeds a hungry couple with likely leftovers, for $21.95 — the same price as a single Churrasco Rodizio order.

The meats at Rudy's are moist and flavorful, although through the course of the meal, they also can come across as a bit salty. The salads and sides taste bright and freshly made. The robust black beans benefit from the addition of both pork and beef; a bowl could be a satisfying meal by itself.

When the restaurant is crowded, service — including the frequency of tableside carving — can be slow. On two visits, ordering drinks turned into a lengthy adventure. Patience may be required.

But for meat lovers who haven't yet experienced a churrascaria, and for those looking for a small-town dining experience in a historic 136-year-old building, Rudy's is worth the drive.

And it sure beats buying a place ticket to Buenos Aires.

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